How Cold is Too Cold for Chickens?

Most chickens do well in the wintertime. But how can you tell if it’s too cold for them?

By Dalia Monterroso, The President of Chickenlandia

*This blog post contains affiliated links*

Once upon a time, I had a chicken named Higby. Throughout her long life, Higby was a mean, cranky frizzle chicken who didn’t have many chicken friends, which I believe is how she wanted it. But when Higby entered her senior years, something I never expected happened. She transformed into a sweet old grandma chicken. She stopped being cranky and appointed herself the jovial matriarch of the flock. I choose to remember her this way despite her grumpy beginnings. I’m sorry to say that Higby taught me a difficult lesson.

Higby had two things against her concerning the wintertime. She was a frizzle, which means her feathers weren’t as insulating as smooth-feathered breeds, and she was also very old. Until that point in my chicken-keeping journey, I had been repeatedly told never to heat my coop. On very cold nights, I would bring my older ones into the garage despite this advice, Higby included. For some reason, however, on an extra-cold night, I didn’t bring Higby inside. I told myself I had been overreacting and that she would be fine. I believe this decision cost Higby her life. I’ll never be 100% sure it was the cold, but to this day, I still feel guilty.

Sweet Higby

It Takes Different Strokes to Rule the Roost

If there’s one thing I cannot say enough in Chickenlandia, it’s this: everyone’s situation is different. There are no absolute chicken rules. We all have different flocks in different circumstances. We live in different climates. Some of us have older birds or very young birds. Our coops are constructed differently. Do chickens usually need supplemental heat in the winter? No, they usually don’t. But there is such a thing as too cold for chickens, and in these rare circumstances, heating your coop or bringing chickens inside at night is not unreasonable.

Note: When I refer to supplemental heat, I’m not talking about heat lamps, which pose an elevated fire risk. Learn more here.

What kind of breeds do you have?

Cold-hardy breeds, which are generally heavier and have smaller combs, are the hardiest in the winter. But there are other breeds, namely lighter breeds or ornamentals, that don’t manage as well when the temperatures drop. Depending on where you live and what your climate is like, you might consider supplemental heat if you have birds that aren’t cold-hardy.

Are your birds very old or very young?

As we learned with Higby, senior chickens can be more vulnerable to getting chilled. The same can also be said for young chickens that are newly feathered, even if they have all their feathers at six to eight weeks. In such cases, they need to be acclimated slowly to anything below 50 degrees.

Where do you live, and how drastic are the temperature changes?

If you live in an area with extended periods of below zero temps (especially below -15) or if there is going to be a sudden, extreme drop in temperature, you might consider some supplemental heat. This does depend on your local climate and the construction of your coop. But even cold-hardy breeds can struggle in prolonged, extreme cold. In such cases, it’s not unreasonable to consider your options.

Do you have special needs chickens?

Chickens with special needs or illnesses will need special care in the winter regardless of their breed. It’s not unreasonable to make a plan to bring them inside at night or offer them a heated area in the coop.

Do you keep having cold-related chicken problems?

No matter what breeds you have, no matter the age of your birds, and no matter what kind of climate you are in, if you are having continuous problems with frostbite and/or respiratory illness in your flock, first make sure you have enough ventilation in your coop (more on that here). If you have enough ventilation but still have issues, it might be time to consider some safe supplemental heat.

As The President of Chickenlandia, I don’t consider it my job to tell you what to do. My goal is to give you information and offer options so you can make an informed choice regarding what is right for your particular situation. The night Higby died, if I had listened to my gut and brought her in, she may have had a few more months to peck and scratch. It turns out that the most important lesson she taught me didn’t have to do with winter at all. She taught me to listen to my heart, and now it’s my mission to share that sentiment with you.

Stay warm out there!

Winter tips for backyard chickens that no one thinks about (until it’s too late)

By Dalia Monterroso, The President of Chickenlandia

This post contains affiliate links to awesome products that I love.

With the upcoming holidays, you’re probably really busy. Alas, time stops for no one, and before we know it, winter will be upon us if it isn’t already. My first and most important winter tip is this: Don’t worry! You and your chickens will be just fine. That said, I don’t want you to get caught off guard by issues that can be avoided with a bit of preparedness. Keep scrolling for helpful winter tips you likely won’t read about elsewhere!

Chickenlandia is in the Pacific Northwest, a region considered relatively mild in terms of climate. Each year, we usually get about two or three days of temperatures below ten degrees and maybe a week with snow on the ground. You can imagine, then, my utter shock when a couple of years ago we had a terrible ice storm. The whole chicken run was covered in a thick sheet of ice, and the netting above it was also frozen solid. Needless to say, the whole thing was scary and difficult to manage, especially after I injured myself while hauling water to the coop.

It was just a little slip; it happened in a split second. I didn’t even fall to the ground. But it was enough to give me a groin injury that took almost two years to heal. If only I had known what I’m about to tell you right now: please get appropriate winter boots dedicated to the chicken yard and/or buy yourself some ice cleats for your existing chicken yard shoes. If I had had either or both of these things, I would not have gotten injured. Don’t let it happen to you! Trust me on this one.

Another thing it would be wise for you to think about before the bitter cold is upon us is how and where you will store your feed in the winter. Think about how you will haul that feed to your coop if there’s a storm or if there’s any place you can put it so you don’t have to haul it. You will also want to consider how you will haul water if needed. You may wish to acquire some kind of cart, wagon, or sled for these types of chores. Trust me, doing so will make life so much easier for you.

If you can have electricity in your coop and you just haven’t set it up yet, do it now and get yourself a heated waterer that you can plug in, fill, and walk away from. There are good-quality heated waterers made specifically for chickens, but they are somewhat expensive. A cheaper alternative would be to purchase one or two heated dog bowls (just remember, you will have to change these out more often). Heated dog bowls can also be used to feed your flock fermented feed over the winter.

Melted snow and rain can cause a mud issue in your chicken yard. Mud can bring with it a whole host of problems you want to avoid, such as stressed or sick chickens. There’s also the problem of smell. If you need to do something drastic, like regrading your chicken yard so you have better drainage, it’s best to do that before the ground freezes. If your mud issue isn’t severe, try Chickenlandia’s famous mud hack, which uses pine pellets to soak up moisture. You can learn more about that here:

Okay, so this piece of advice is really important. I want you to be truly honest with yourself and make sure that the space where your chickens can go to get away from drafts, rain, snow, and mud is enough space for the number of chickens you have. If you need to downsize, you should do it now. Don’t wait until you have a bullying situation or other problems due to overcrowding.

The other thing you need to be sure of is that you have enough enrichment for your chickens, especially if they have to be confined for an extended time in a smaller space than they are used to. Because bored chickens will get into trouble, hanging a cabbage for them to peck at is a great idea. You could also sprout some grains for them and/or make them a suet treat or a DIY treat block. They will love it, and it will keep them occupied until that darn snow melts away. For my DIY suet treat recipe, watch this (or check out the blog post before this one):

Winter can be a nerve-wracking time for chicken keepers, but it doesn’t have to be. Let me know in the comments how you plan to get through the winter! You can also check out more regarding chicken winter care here.

Your chickens deserve this healthy homemade suet treat!

It’s low-cost and great for molting and cold weather.

Written by Dalia Monterroso

The wonderful folks at Grubbly Farms sponsored this article.

Last week, I took a break from all my Chickenlandia shenanigans to share an easy recipe for a fun and healthy chicken treat. This treat has a suet or coconut oil base and is filled with healthy ingredients (you probably already have most of them) to help chickens through their molt and the colder weather. Here’s the video about it that I posted on my YouTube Channel. You’re a subscriber, right? 

For this recipe, I did use a new ingredient that I hadn’t used before in a suet treat. It’s the Omega Mix from Grubbly Farms. Technically, it’s a supplement since it adds extra omegas to your flock’s diet, making their eggs more nutritious. But chickens love the taste of it, so they see it as a treat. With ingredients like black soldier fly larvae, sunflower seeds, pumpkin seeds, and more, it’s also great for chickens when they’re molting and on colder days. This is an optional ingredient, but I think it’s one that really packs a punch. Grab your own bag here.

Chickenlandia’s Fun and Healthy Suet Treat

What you will need:


2 cups lard, tallow, or coconut oil (you can melt it if you like but if you’re able to stir it, it’s not necessary)
 
5 tablespoons chicken-safe herbs such as thyme and oregano
 
1 garlic clove, minced
 
2/3rd cup Grubbly Farms Omega Mix*

2 cups mash, pellet, or crumble chicken feed
 
2 tablespoons nutritional yeast or brewer’s yeast 


Directions: Stir all the ingredients together in a large bowl until mixed well. Add the mixture into an ice tray or a makeshift suet holder as seen in my video. Place the containers of mixture into the refrigerator until the fat hardens, usually one to two hours. Once it’s hardened, offer as much to your chickens as they will eat before dusk (this treat is for chickens, not wayward rodents!)

*If you don’t have the Omega Mix, you can replace it with 2/3rd cup grubs, mealworms, oatmeal, cracked corn, sunflower seeds, or extra feed. Honestly, just play around with it. Your chickens are going to love it!

Let me know if you get a chance to make this fun treat and how your chickens like it. I’m always interested in hearing from you!

How to Help a Chicken Die

You’ve loved them for all their life. Now, you want an easy death for them.

By: Dalia Monterroso, The President of Chickenlandia

If you’re reading this right now, there’s no doubt in my mind that you love your chickens. Unfortunately, no amount of love can save a being from the inevitable process of bodily death. If it’s any comfort, there are ways in which we can help our chickens pass on to the next adventure with less struggle, pain, and resistance. Don’t worry; the options I wish to discuss do not cause harm and will not cause a chicken to die if that’s not already the trajectory.

My sweet Kiki, RIP.

Let Go of the Guilt

First things first, please do not feel guilty. There are so many factors that go into the health of a chicken and how long they live. Most of those factors are well beyond your control. Production breeds, especially, are vulnerable to all kinds of afflictions. Even seemingly indestructible bantam chickens can succumb when least expected. It’s never easy, and I can say with almost 100% certainty that it’s not your fault.

My Philippe ❤️

Offer a Peaceful Environment

Before you administer anything to help your chicken pass peacefully, you will first want to remove them from the flock either completely or partially. A chicken that doesn’t mind being inside and has had a lot of human interaction may be most comfortable in a quiet bathroom or section of the garage.

On the other hand, a chicken that you know would rather be chased by a raccoon than experience human interaction can be kept outside with her flock but safely behind some kind of a wire barrier or enclosure. This way, she can see the flock and experience their comfort while not being subject to the darker aspects of the pecking order (sick chickens can be harmed or even killed by their flock-mates).

The Flower Essence

It was difficult for me to locate a good definition that clearly states what flower essences are. The best definition I found was from a company that actually makes them. I have no association with this company, nor am I selling their product. But their website is great! Here is the flower essence definition as defined by the folks at Forrest Green Farm:

“Flower Essences are energetic imprints of flowers in spring water that work well for mental, emotional, physical, and spiritual concerns. They do not have any medicinal constituents so anyone with any conditions can feel safe using essences. Including children, the elderly and animals. They are easily assimilated into your body and are very safe to use.“

So there you have it. I have been using flower essences for over thirty years and have found them to be essential to my overall wellness and the wellness of my family. The essence Angel’s Trumpet, specifically, has been an absolute gift when I’m faced with a dying chicken. This essence’s purpose is not to make the chicken die or to have any physical effect. It simply helps anyone taking it to accept the process of death on an emotional (and, I dare say, spiritual) level. It also helps me to feel more peaceful just from administering it.

The Homeopathic

Merriam-Webster defines Homeopathic Medicine as: “a system of alternative medicine that treats a disease especially by the administration of minute doses of a remedy that would in larger amounts produce symptoms in healthy persons similar to those of the disease.”

In other words, according to the founder of homeopathy, like heals like. I have been using homeopathic remedies for as long as I’ve been using flower essences. They have also become an integral part of mine and my family’s health and healing, even for my chickens!

Arsenicum Album is a homeopathic remedy known as a “polycrest,” which means that it has a wide variety of indications, with ease of death being just one. When I have a chicken that is clearly dying, I will administer Arsenicum Album in the 30c potency. This remedy, along with Angel’s Trumpet, has made the process of dying so much easier for several of my chickens over the years. Again, this remedy is not going to make your chicken die. Its purpose is to help ease the struggle of a chicken that is already dying.

Caring for Philippe during his respiratory illness.

Options for Dosing

If my chicken is still drinking liquids, I will simply place two drops of Angel’s Trumpet and two pellets of Arsenicum Album 30c into her water. Each time the chicken takes a sip of water, she will get a dose.

If I have a chicken that is no longer drinking on her own, I will put two drops of Angel’s Trumpet and two pellets of Arsenicum Album into a glass of water, pull some water into a needle-less syringe, and administer a drop or two onto the side of my chicken’s beak every few hours. The liquid need only make contact with the inside of the beak; she doesn’t have to drink it. This method should be used only if the chicken doesn’t mind being handled. If a chicken really doesn’t want to be handled, you can simply put a couple of drops from the treated glass of water onto the back of her neck.

A Lifetime of Gratitude

It’s not easy, but when I’m dealing with death in my flock, it does serve as a reminder that the most important thing in life is how it was lived. I’m so grateful for the time I get with my chickens, and I’m glad I can give them the kind of life I wish all chickens on earth could have. During our last moments together, I will tell my chicken thank you. Thank you for making me laugh. Thank you for easing my stress. And when they look back at me, I sometimes feel that I can hear them saying, “And thank you for letting me peck and scratch. I liked that.”

Chicken Predator Attacks: How to Help Your Flock Move On

By Dalia Monterroso, The President of Chickenlandia

*This article contains affiliate links to some awesome products I love.*

Predator attacks are heartbreaking when they happen to our chickens. Unfortunately, what many folks don’t realize is that even if there are no injuries or losses in your flock, the aftermath could actually be worse than the initial event. That’s why I felt it was important to tell you the story of a terrible day in Chickenlandia. It all started when I heard a loud commotion from my kitchen. At the time, I dismissed it, thinking it was just my chickens singing their normal morning egg song. But when I went outside a few minutes later, what I saw broke my heart.

RIP Sweet Baboon

Since the beginning of my teaching career, I have spoken at length about protecting chickens from hungry predators. In fact, one of the first popular videos I uploaded to my YouTube channel was about predator-proofing. In the opening sequence, with all the acting skills I could muster, I imitated Liam Neeson in the movie Taken. Even though I cringe whenever I see it, I’ve noticed that fewer raccoons come around Chickenlandia since it was posted. They must know I have “a particular set of skills.” Watch the video and learn more about predator-proofing here.

via GIPHY

The Little Bear Who Lost Its Way

A few weeks ago, my neighbor sent me this photo of a young bear trying to break into a can of chicken feed:

Little Bear

We live on five acres, surrounded mostly by farmland. While black bears are prolific in the higher elevations near where we live, in the last thirty years, there have been only two sightings in our neighborhood. This more recent sighting was the latter. Both times, the bears were juveniles who seemingly lost their way.

The neighbor who warned me lives on the other side of several acres of woods behind our property. Because they live relatively far away, I confess I thought there was no way the young bear would make its way to my property. If it did, I thought, “There’s no way it could do any damage to my flock.” Alas, in chicken keeping, over-confidence can be a real trickster.

A young bear looking for a snack.

While I didn’t actually witness the bear come around, I do believe it ventured into my yard and made its predatory presence known. I came to this conclusion because when I made it out to my coop, I found two sweet chickens had passed from what I gathered was utter shock. Unfortunately, chickens and other animals can die from fright, and it’s always very sad. If you’d like to watch the full story, including why I felt those two particular chickens were vulnerable to sudden death, click the play button below.

The Process of Healing Takes some Proaction

Even if you don’t experience any losses or injuries in your flock, what you do in the aftermath of a predator attack is critical to the immediate and long-term health of your birds. Just like humans, chickens can get stuck in a traumatic moment, unable to move forward in a healthy way. The result of this chronic stress can be illness and/or parasite infestation. That’s why after any traumatic event affecting your chickens, I recommend doing a few things to help them move past the bad event and into a more cheerful moment in time.

Rescue Remedy FTW.

Rescue Remedy is a Bach Flower Remedy that I put in my flock’s water any time they are under stress. It’s a combination of calming flower essences, which work energetically to bring balance to a being’s spirit and emotions (people can take them too). If this sounds a tad “woo woo” for you, I get it. Flower essences are similar to homeopathics, and I know they aren’t for everyone. I share my use of them because I have seen them work first-hand. I’ve also taken them myself for decades. Note: Flower Essences are not essential oils. There’s no fear of a chicken suffering negative effects from them. You can learn more about them in this podcast I did about pecking order issues.

Support with Supplementation.

Just like people, chickens’ immune systems are vulnerable when they are traumatized and/or stressed. If you never give your chickens vitamins, herbs, or other immune-boosting supplements, after a predator attack is the time to do it. After our possible bear attack, I added (and have decided to continue adding) this Prebiotic+Probiotic supplement from Grubbly Farms to my flock’s water.

Good stuff.

The company describes it as a supplement that “ensures optimal gut health for healthy digestion and nutrient absorption, which impacts overall wellness.” Since we are learning more and more about the connection between gut health, immunity, and overall resilience, I felt great about adding this supplement to my flock’s water at such a critical time. Of course, if you can’t buy anything, you can always grow your flock their own immune-boosting herbs and ferment their feed. And don’t forget you can also make your chickens some nutrient-packed DIY electrolytes at home.

Treats make the heart forget.

Distraction and a quick return to normalcy can help chickens overcome traumatic events. I recommend offering your chickens nutritious treats in addition to good immune-boosting supplementation. You don’t have to spend money on this; hanging a cabbage, throwing some healthy scraps, or offering them some grass clippings is great.

This was a real hit.

If you do wish to buy them something special, the Omega Mix from Grubbly Farms is both nutrient-rich and highly distracting (due to its deliciousness). I found it to be extra helpful after this event since it’s both a healthy supplement and a tasty treat. The bonus: it makes their eggs healthier, too! My chickens loved it so much that they forgot all about their bear encounter. I also enjoyed giving it to them, which helped me move on.

We’re All Learning

I wish I could tell you that as The President of Chickenlandia, I have finally learned all the lessons the chicken yard has to offer. Alas, that’s simply not true. Even with so many chicken-keeping years under my belt, and even though I spend my days teaching others the way of the chicken yard, I am still learning. While it’s hard sometimes, I’m grateful for the experience, and I’d love to hear about what you’ve been experiencing in your neck of the woods. Hopefully, it doesn’t include bears. But if it does, I hope it’s just the “teddy” kind.

Caring for Chickens in Winter

by Dalia Monterroso, The President of Chickenlandia

An edited version of this article originally appeared in the Little Farmer Blog.

Winter is Here

It’s happening. The days are getting shorter and the nights are getting colder. Everywhere, new chicken keepers are starting to feel concerned about their flocks. Will their feathered friends be okay in low temperatures? Does there need to be a heat lamp in the coop? Surely chickens can’t withstand several days or weeks of snow? It’s just so awful out there!

As a Backyard Chicken Educator, I hear these concerns every year from new chicken keepers. These are valid concerns, especially for those who live in climates with extreme or wildly fluctuating weather. My goal is to calm people’s fears and give them confidence in their choices. Though it may seem like there’s only one way to care for chickens in the winter months, I find it’s better to talk about varying situations and allow people to make informed choices according to their own unique situations.

Do Chickens Need Supplemental Heat in Winter?

Pardon the pun, but this is a “heated” topic within the chicken community. As with most things, the answer is not as simple as it seems. Depending on breed, healthy, adult chickens generally do not need supplemental heat. Most laying chickens sold in farm stores or from hatcheries are cold hardy and thus can handle cold temperatures just fine. If you question this, consider that there are chickens living in Minnesota, Alaska, and even Siberia with no supplemental heat!

Contrary to what you might think, it’s actually moisture that is the problem in the winter, not the cold. This is why I recommend you have good ventilation in your coop while ensuring it isn’t drafty where your flock roosts at night. It’s natural to think that you must seal every nook and cranny and close every window to seal in the heat. But that’s actually a recipe for disaster! Let me explain.

Moisture is the Enemy, Not Temperature

When chickens sleep, they generate moisture from their breath. Their droppings also contain moisture. If you have their water container in the coop that will release moisture. And if you have ducks living in the coop with them, well, you get where I’m going. Good airflow in the coop will create a dryer environment, staving off things like ammonia buildup, respiratory issues, and even frostbite. You can learn more about the importance of chicken coop ventilation by watching this video.

With good ventilation and no drafts where your chickens roost, it’s very unlikely that supplemental heat will be needed even when the temperatures get below freezing. Remember, chickens are wearing thick down coats and cuddle up together at night to keep each other warm. However, if you feel like you’re doing all the right things and you’re still running into problems, if you have very old chickens or young chicks, or if you have breeds that aren’t cold-hardy, you may consider a safer heating option for your coop. In these scenarios, I recommend a radiant-type heater like the Cozy Coop or the Sweeter Heater. These panel heaters are made especially for use in a chicken coop and are far less of a fire hazard than a heat lamp. If you must use a heat lamp, be sure to clean it often and secure it well.

Frozen Waterers are Super Annoying

When I experienced my first winter with chickens, it was kind of a shock how quickly their water would freeze. I found myself hauling heavy water buckets from the kitchen sink to the chicken yard several times a day. As you can imagine, I was not excited about this chore! My life became so much easier once I invested in a heated waterer made especially for my flock. I even have some heated dog bowls that I use for the ducks and to keep fermented feed from freezing. I know it’s an extra expense, but in my opinion, adding a heated waterer to your list of winter supplies is a lifesaver. That being said, for some folks, it’s just not possible. This video can help.

Do What’s Best for You and Your Flock

I will never fault a new chicken keeper who’s worried about the welfare of their chickens during the cold months. In my opinion, that’s a sign of good chicken parenting. But rest assured, your flock is likely going to be just fine, even if you need a few extra layers over your pajamas when you’re doing your chicken chores!

Yes, I Use Diatomaceous Earth (and my chickens aren’t dead)

Chicks Before Clicks

I know, I know, such a provocative title. The fact is, provocative titles get clicks. Even more click-baity are captions that illicit fear, indignation, or at worst, rage. Alas, such has become the nature of journalism, social media, and the blogosphere. I make an effort to temper the urge to participate in such behavior but I’m part of the game and thus have to work to stay relevant. Even so, I try to remain true to who I am: someone who brings people together, not pits them against each other. I also truly care about the health of our chickens and our planet. I hope I never forget that there are real humans and chickens behind the “likes” and “follows”.

Here I am making a dust bath for my chickens that includes DE.

So, what does all this have to do with Diatomaceous Earth, you ask? Well, basically, DE (as it’s referred to in chicken circles) has gotten a tremendously bad rap. The vitriol against it and sometimes against people who use it can get more intense than a broody hen. I confess that I’ve felt annoyed and defensive toward those who have challenged my use of DE. But then I take a step back from the madness and remember: they just care about chickens, and when you care a lot about something it can get emotional.

Jessica Lange taking a very messy dust bath in dirt, wood ash, and DE.

So, I want to take some of the emotion out of it and look at the cold, hard facts. Or at least the facts that we have access to. First off, I want to acknowledge that natural products used in chicken keeping have less science surrounding them. There’s just not as much of an incentive (translation: there’s not enough money to be made) to perform studies that aren’t geared toward large-scale agriculture. That being said, we do know a thing or two about DE, where it comes from, and the different types there are. We also know enough to make an educated guess about its safety. Is it 100% benign? No. Is it as dangerous as it’s been presented to be? No.

Let’s Break it Down

Microalgae microalgae-ing.

Diatomaceous earth is made from the million-year-old remains of diatoms. The skeletons of these microscopic sea creatures are composed almost entirely of silica, aka silicon dioxide, which is an essential nutrient naturally present in our environment. The type of diatomaceous earth that should be used in chicken care is made from amorphous silica. But there are actually two kinds of diatomaceous earth: amorphous and crystalline. Amorphous DE is considered generally safe by the Food and Drug Administration. Crystalline DE is not.

This silica-rich rock off the coast of Greece would make a great dust bath!

Amorphous DE can be found in numerous products we use every day, including makeup, toothpaste, medicine, and even the food we eat. Its effectiveness as an insecticide comes from its ability to dry bugs out and damage their exoskeletons with its abrasiveness edges. Once amorphous DE gets wet, however, its insecticidal power disappears. This is why I generally don’t recommend it alone as an internal anti-parasitic, although I know many who swear by it for this purpose and there is this positive study on it.

Crystalline DE is treated at high temperatures and is often referred to as “pool grade” due to its use in filtration. It’s not useful as an insecticide and is known to cause lung damage in humans and animals with prolonged exposure. When using DE for chickens, it’s essential to only use products labeled food grade, which is the amorphous type and must contain less than 1% crystalline DE in order to acquire that label. Although this low percentage of crystalline diatomaceous earth does present some level of risk, it’s minuscule when compared to the risk of a parasite infestation or the use of other synthetic anti-parasite treatments. Remember: Crystalline DE becomes problematic with prolonged exposure and Food Grade DE might contain trace amounts.

Natural Doesn’t Mean Harmless

We must protect the bees at all costs.

I’m a proponent of diatomaceous earth, but I’m still careful to limit its use to dust baths, the coop, or on the chickens themselves. Just because DE is a natural substance doesn’t mean it can’t negatively affect the ecosystem, especially when it’s overused. If you were to spread DE all over your chicken yard, it wouldn’t just ward off unwanted parasites, it would kill beneficial insects such as bees, butterflies, and even microscopic critters we can’t see but we definitely need in a balanced environment. So, yes, use DE. But please, be responsible with it.

So, what do you think? With this information in mind, do you feel safe using diatomaceous earth? Why or why not? Let me know in the comments. And remember, no matter what your answer is, you’re always welcome in Chickenlandia. :-)

Cool stuff to click on:

Make Your Own DIY Dust Bath!

Diatom Information

Fact Sheet on DE

Study about the Benefits of DE for Chickens

The Age-Old Practice of “Cold-Brooding” Baby Chicks

By Dalia Monterroso, The President of Chickenlandia

How did chicken farmers raise baby chicks before electricity?

I often sit and ponder about how things were done long ago. When I say “long ago”, I’m talking about before Amazon Prime, before iPhones, and even *shutters* before Netflix. I’m not ashamed to admit that I’m so old I remember when kids’ television shows (think: Loony Toons) only aired on weekdays from 3 to 4 pm and Saturday mornings. We had to watch commercials and even remote controls were futuristic! Alas, sometimes the world I grew up in seems like a dream that never really happened. I wonder how my great-grandmother would feel about the world we live in today. And I wonder…how the heck did she brood baby chicks without an electric heat source?

My first batch of baby chicks!

Cold-Brooding Baby Chicks

When burning questions concerning chickens keep me up at night, I feel have no choice but to go down the chicken rabbit hole so you don’t have to. I must say, though, there really isn’t a ton of information online about brooding chicks without electricity. I found a few blog posts and videos about raising chicks off-grid, but most of what I could find was about heat lamp alternatives that still required power. Even my collection of mid-1900s chicken books mostly focused on wacky contraptions that, to be honest, seem pretty dangerous through my modern lens. But through it all, I did manage to piece together some nifty ways in which baby chicks can survive without heat. The practice is called “cold-brooding,” and if nothing else, understanding how it works could be extremely helpful in the event of a power outage.

Chicken Math gone awry!

More is Better

Chicken keepers like to joke about a phenomenon called “chicken math,” which is the tendency to get more and more chickens despite ominous looks from our spouses. If you decide to cold-brood baby chicks it’s important to know that more is actually better in this case. Under natural circumstances, baby chicks rely on their mother’s fluffy body to keep them warm. The younger chicks are, the more in danger they are of getting chilled. If there is no mother hen or artificial heat source available, baby chicks will naturally turn to each other for warmth and comfort. This is why it is best to have no less than a dozen chicks if you plan to cold-brood. You want them to be able to huddle together so that they can generate enough heat to keep from getting chilled.

Baby chicks hanging out indoors like they got it like that.

Your New Housemates

You may or may not know this already, but baby chicks generate a ton of dust, especially if they are being kept on shavings. Because of this fact, I often suggest keeping your brooder in an area other than inside your house, such as a garage or shed. This is not the best option for cold-brooding, however, because the ambient temperature needs to be at least above 70 degrees Fahrenheit. If possible, it’s safest for your chicks to keep your brooder near your family’s heat source, such as a wood-burning stove or fireplace. Keeping them near your heat will be a much-needed layer of protection against becoming too cold.

Keep Them Cozy

I normally say that as long as there are no drafts or other dangers present, the more space you can give baby chicks the better. This is not the case if you are cold-brooding. Having your chicks in a smaller space (not over-crowded, but cozy) makes it easier for their environment to retain heat. In fact, some cold-brooding set-ups consist of two “rooms” for chicks, one small, very insulated compartment for chicks to go into, huddle, and warm up together, and another compartment with feed, water, and some space to stretch their legs. If you have your chicks inside where the ambient temperature is above 70 degrees, one area should work just fine. Many of you likely have a plastic bin that might be too small if you were using artificial heat but is perfect for cold-brooding. Having a smaller brooder will also make it easier for you to insulate their space by placing thick blankets over and around it. Of course, always make sure there is adequate ventilation and clean their brooder often to ward off any ammonia build-up.

Snuggle Bugs

Give them something to snuggle with

Baby chicks can generate heat by snuggling under or near something cozy such as a feather or wool duster, a wool blanket, or even a stuffed animal. Make sure anything you offer them is free of chemicals such as fabric softeners or artificial fragrances, as well as loose strings that they can get caught up in. You also don’t want to use a blanket so heavy that a chick could get stuck beneath it. Above all, use common sense.

If you are the diligent sort, you can wrap a hot water bottle in a towel and offer it to them to warm up near. If you decide to do this, just be sure you are checking it often and make certain it stays warm even overnight. Once your baby chicks get used to a heat source, you want to keep it on offer until they can be slowly weaned from it as they grow into their adolescent feathers.

Mama and LOTS of babies

‘Tis it Really the Season?

If you are considering raising chicks without heat, it’s best to plan that baby-raising according to the seasons. There is an important reason that mother hens normally go broody in the spring: it’s so her babies will hatch during an ideal climate when she doesn’t have to worry about them getting accidentally chilled. Even when you’re brooding chicks indoors, keeping the ambient temperature above 70 degrees can be more difficult and definitely more expensive in the cold of winter. This is why it’s better to hold off acquiring your baby chicks until later in the year after things warm up. In the Southern USA, there are times when the temperatures are so high in the summer that chicks don’t need additional heat even if you wanted to offer it! So, make things easier on yourself and your chickens. Remember: cold-brooding works best during the late spring and summer months.

A healthy, hardy hen.

Bullet-Proof Babies

Baby chicks that survive cold-brooding often grow up to be very hardy and healthy adult chickens. As with most things, though, there are risks to raising chicks this old-fashioned way. It is an unfortunate possibility that you may lose a chick or chicks because they became chilled or otherwise stressed. For this reason, my soft heart will always recommend using a mother hen or artificial heat source. However, I must acknowledge that not every person has access to heat lamps or heat plates, so I wanted to be sure this information was out there in an organized way. If you choose to cold-brood your baby chicks, I’d love to hear about it! Let me know about your experience in the comments.

This article is featured in my online course Chickenlandia’s Backyard Chickens 101 – A Chicken Course for Everyone! Find out more about this easy and interactive course by clicking here.

Chickenlandia’s NEW Book is Now Available for Pre-order!

I can’t believe it’s finally happening…

Words cannot express how excited I am to finally be sharing the pre-order link for my new book Let’s All Keep Chickens! which has been a labor of love for nearly three years. Since I became a Backyard Chicken Educator over a decade ago, I’ve been gathering the information I need to put it all together. For the months that I was actively writing, I would sit in my youngest son’s bed and type away as he fell asleep. That’s how I was able to get this done, by squeezing in moments to write whenever I could. It was hard, but it has been so worth it. You can find all the purchase options for Let’s All Keep Chickens! by clicking the link below:

Pre-order Let’s All Keep Chickens! here.

Aren’t chickens awesome?

This one is different…

At the risk of tooting my own horn, I have to say that I don’t think there’s another chicken book like this one on the market. Don’t get me wrong, there are so many great chicken books, some of which I have used in my own education throughout the years. But Let’s All Keep Chickens! is different because my goal is not only to share with you the ins and outs of chicken keeping but also to inspire you to use this age-old practice to enrich not only your life but also the world. I really mean that! 

The actual release date for the book is February 28th, 2023, just in time for baby chick season! Leading up to the release, I’ll be updating you via social media regarding any interviews I’ll be doing and any in-person events I may be participating in. It’s going to be a very busy and very exciting time, so make sure you’re following me on YouTube, Instagram, Facebook, and Twitter.

Me and Gizmo sporting the same hair LOL

Chicken Keeping is for everyone.

I’m so glad we have found each other on this wild chicken adventure we’re on. I hope you will take a moment to pre-order my book and share the link with your friends. But even if you can’t buy my book or my online course, remember: there’s a ton of FREE content on my YouTube Channel and Podcast. And above all, remember that you are always welcome in Chickenlandia! 

Make Your Own DIY Chicken Coop Diffuser!

Give your chickens the benefit of gentle aromatic essential oils

Written by Kelcie Paulis, Chickenlandia Presidential Advisor

As an Amazon Associate, Chickenlandia earns from qualifying purchases through some of the links below.

In Chickenlandia, we often talk about the use of essential oils (EOs) with chickens. But it’s important to understand that oils can be powerful and their use around poultry should be done with careful consideration. Some gentle EOs can be safely diffused (“diffuse” means to dispense the EO’s aromatic molecules into the air) within your flock’s coop, creating a more healthful and good-smelling environment for you and your chickens. Many people use electric diffusers in their homes, but for use within chicken housing, I do not recommend electric diffusers as they may add unwanted moisture to the coop. For EO diffusion with chickens, I suggest simply placing a few drops of the oil onto a porous material and hanging it in the coop or placing it near a chicken needing assistance, such as one suffering from respiratory issues. Many materials you have laying around your home can work great for this purpose. It doesn’t have to cost anything or look pretty to be functional. Good options include wood beads, felted wool, lava stone, terracotta, old washcloths, a dry sponge, paper towels, cardboard toilet paper rolls, etc.

My most recommended oils to diffuse within the chicken coop include:

  • Lavender – Calming, Respiratory relief
  • Peppermint – Repels flies, Respiratory relief
  • Rosemary – Repels insects, Respiratory relief
  • Melaleuca – Repel mites, Respiratory relief
  • Clove – Repels red mites, lice, & fleas
  • Lemon – Refresh the coop smell, Respiratory relief

Today, I want to share with you a cute rainbow diffuser I made to hang in my coop (it’s so much more aesthetically pleasing than the dirty old rag I had hanging in there before). And I’ll give you all the directions for how you can make one yourself below:


Here’s what you’ll need:


Cut three lengths of the thick rope to form your rainbow arch.
Each piece should be slightly longer than the last.
I cut my pieces at 16″, 18″, & 20″

Choose your three colored cords. You can get creative with any color combination.
Cut one 120″ cord of each color.

Starting with your rainbow’s innermost color, Tie one end of the colored cord onto the shortest (16″) rope, leaving about 4 inches of the rope before the knot.

Begin wrapping the colored cord around the rope, tucking the end of the cord in with the rope.

Continue wrapping the colored cord for 7 inches.

Once you have 7 inches of color wrapped, tie the end of the cord into the rope and trim off the excess cord.

Glue down the end of the cord to secure.

Shape this piece of rope into an arch shape and now you have the first arch of your rainbow done.

Next, tie your chosen middle arch color onto the 18″ rope, leaving a 4-5 inch space at the rope end.

Wrap the colored cord around the rope until you have 9 inches of color.

Tie off and cut the remaining colored cord.

Glue down the cord end to secure.

Now you have your middle arch done!

Tie the 3rd colored cord onto the remaining 20″ rope.

Repeat the wrapping process with the final color until you have 10 inches of wrap.

Tie, cut, & glue the color cord to secure.

Next, bend the 3 colored wraps into arches together, to form your rainbow shape.

Beginning with the inner, smallest arch, hot glue the colored arches to each other.

Glue in the short section, continuing to form the arch shapes as you go.

Repeat the gluing process with the third color.

Unravel and Trim the ends of the rope to your desired fringe length. I cut mine about 2 inches below the color.

Taking the piece of thin rope, fold it in half and tie a knot in the middle. Glue this knot onto the back, center of your rainbow.

Here’s where will add our ‘diffuser’ options.

I am using natural unfinished wood beads and a felted wool ball.

Add your diffuser beads onto the hanging cord.

Tie a knot at the end for hanging.

And Ta Da!


Does this look like a project for your chicken family to try? If you happen to make one, be sure to post your diffuser on Instagram and tag Welcome to Chickenlandia! We’d love to see it!

And if you’d like to check out more of my macrame creations you can follow me at Wild Moon Knots on Instagram and Etsy.

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